Back to Kauai

     It's been more than a year since we have done any real traveling.  Last summer we went on a bunch of small camping excursions with the grandkids, but no big trip.  Our traveling time was spent, instead, working on the Blue Heron Hideway aka the Blue Money Pit.  I miss the traveling - especially in the RV, but huge piles of snow still surround the camper, so we are off to Hawaii.
     We are headed back to Kauai, the Garden Isle.  We were there seven years ago and loved the beauty of the island.  Unfortunately we hit a very rainy and stormy stretch of weather on that trip.  The rains were so hard that we didn't see as much of the island as we wanted to due to highway washouts.  In addition, the sea swells were so high that we didn't get on any boating expeditions.  I am hoping that the weather is more cooperative this trip.
     We are staying on the south side of the island near Poipu Beach which is one of the best beaches in the world.  There is a complex of condos called the Kiahuna Plantation Resort which are right on the ocean.  Our unit is on the second floor looking out over a large lawn and then out to the ocean.  No heat, no air conditioning, just screens and plantation shutters.  We can enjoy wonderful warm sea breezes with the smell of tropical flowers.  I just can't wait!
    It is with great enthusiam that I am digging out shorts, t-shirts and bathing suits.  I'll be all ready for spring when we return.  I am also hoping that by returning in April we will avoid the depressing problem of returning home to sub-zero temps and snow.  I have had enough already this winter.
     Just a few more days and we will be headed to a place where I can go barefoot on the beach.  I am so ready.

Back to Minnesota

     Our morning began as usual with three little boys sitting in the warm sunshine playing on their IPads.   A warm breeze off the ocean brings in smells of the sea, the plants and the warm earth.  It is fairly humid again today and promises to be warm.  It is such a dramatic difference from the cold, dry climate we are returning to.  We have spent the week barefoot with just the feel of warm sand under our feet.

    Finding all the clothes and toys that have spread all over this large house is a chore.  We started gathering them up last night, but a few items are still missing.  Nothing too critical.  The kids stuffed animals and blankets are safely stored in their backpacks for the trip home.  Carter says he feels a little silly at 10 years old walking through the airport with a stuffed monkey on his backpack and I tell him to stuff it inside.  He keeps it outside, though, where he can touch it.
    Stella and I each did a round of Albuterol on her nebulizer.  We are both coughing and wheezing.  Kellen is mostly over his cough and no one else has fallen ill.  We are all grateful for that.  I'm guessing that the bug has passed over the rest of the group.

    This has been a magical week.  Our last family trip was to Sanibel Island and Stella was just a baby.  She really doesn't remember the ocean.  This time she spent hours on the beach and in the water.  They will all remember the big house, the chilly swimming pool, the amazing beach, and the time together.  Carter and Bennett are very eager to do more snorkeling.  I think they may be disappointed when then see how cloudy many Minnesota lakes can be.
    As we return we will need to use the strength of our family bond to bring Matt through his next surgery and rounds of chemo.  This week has been a wonderful bubble of freedom from worries; with lots of time to relax and enjoy the value of time together.  It is hard to leave knowing what awaits, but we go back to a large circle of family and friends who will be there for Matt. 
 

National Reef Park, Puerto Morelos

     The Great MesoAmerican Reef is the second largest barrier reef in the world.  The largest is off the coast of Australia.  The northern most part of the reef is off Cancun and it stretches southeast along the coasts of Mexico, Belize, Guatemala and Honduras for about 600 miles.  Just off the coast of Puerto Morelos the reef is closest to the shore and is a Mexican national park.  Although its only about 500 yards from shore, snorkelers and divers can't swim out to the reef to dive.  They have to get a wristband and dive with a guide who is aware of the safety rules in managing the reefs ecosystem.
    When the big kids did their test scuba dive, they swam in an area just a five minute walk down the beach from our house.  The dive shop has a large reef area surrounded by buoys to keep the dive boats away from the snorkelers.  Amanda packed up towels, sunscreen, snacks, and snorkel equipment for the kids and they all walked down the beach to check out the amazing underwater world.  Marlene and I sat in the shade by the pool and drank coffee and enjoyed the beauty of the day. 
     After an hour or so, Amanda came back.  She had rented a couple loungers under a big umbrella and encouraged us to join them.  She made sandwiches for everyone, then we walked back.  Carter and Bennett were really excited about their snorkel adventures.  They were seeing lots of fish including some big barracuda, and they looked into a cenote.  The Yucatan Peninsula has hundreds of cenotes which are basically sinkholes in the limestone where freshwater gathers.  There are many spots in the jungle where cave divers go to explore and enjoy the extremely clear water that has filtered through the limestone and created pools. Those that are found in the reef are more vertical, water filled shafts.  No one in our group did anything more than look into the mysterious depths.
    Eventually Stella wore herself out and crashed on the lounger with Grandma Marlene and napped.  Her very strong mom had to carry her back down the beach when everyone was done snorkeling.  But not before Amanda and the guys accompanied Rick out to the reef to see the fish.  He is not a confident swimmer and was leary of the current and the possibility of being in deep water and having a problem with his snorkel.  He knew that with Amanda right by his side he would have help if he needed it, and with that confidence, he enjoyed the exploration of the reef.
    After a good rest we cleaned up and went into town to Pelicanos - a restaurant right on the town square and the pier.  We had a big table on the shaded veranda which overlooked the water.  Soon we heard the sound of a conch, then drums and rattles and saw a costumed man out on the square doing traditional Mayan dances. The dances tell stories from the pre-hispanic Mayan culture.  The dancing included fire and smoke and was a big hit with the kids who went over to watch while we waited on our delicious Mexican dinners.  After dinner we walked across the square to a small ice cream shop for homemade ice cream.  It was the perfect end to a wonderful day.

Croco Cun Zoo

     We lucked out on a perfect day for the big "kids" to go scuba diving.  Earlier in the week Big waves outside the reef had prevented boats from going out for scuba dives.  Today the water was calmer so Matt, Arik and Amanda walked down the beach to the local dive shop.  They had a long session of instruction on the equipment and time in the pool.  Then they went down to the ocean and dove in the shallow water inside the reef.  They saw many tropical fish and a few barracu

.  After a brief rest they took a boat ride outside the reef for a deeper dive.  Matt has always been susceptible to sea sickness so he was glad that he took Dramamine.  It was a very bouncy ride.  They spent about 40 minutes under water with two dive instructors and learned a lot about reef diving.

     While the big kids were away, the little kids went to a local zoo for a guided tour of Yucatan animal life.  They fed parrots and monkeys.  They held snakes and an alligator- except for Stella who didn't want anything to do with either one.  They spent time on the playground there and had some ice cream.  It was quite a highlight of the trip for them and they learned a lot about the local animals.

    After writing in their journals the little kids spent the afternoon in the pool and playing in the sand.  Marlene and I don't like the hot sun so it was nice to go sit on the beach in the early evening when its cool and do some people watching.   Every shape and size body wears a bikini.  Or further down the beach, they wear nothing at all, according to our beach comber, Rick.

    The big kids came back exhausted and sleepy from lots of exercise, sun, dramamine, and a post dive beer.  They want to take everyone back to the same area for some snorkeling tomorrow.  So far no sunburns and no new virus victims.  We haven't had to wash clothes because we spend the day in bathing suits.  I've only had shoes on twice.  Life is good at the beach.

Puerto Morelos

     Puerto Morelos is located between Cancun and Riviera Maya.  It is a deep water port where, in the past, mahogany and bricks of chicle (used to make chewing gum) were shipped to ports around the world.  Although there are more hotels being built in the area, the town is still very much a small fishing village.  There are many small shops and cafes, but no chain restaurants.  Many of the residents are decended from the original Mayan people.  They are very friendly and helpful to us tourists who have only a slight grasp of the Spanish language.

    Amanda has been running a course set out for her by the property manager here, Roberto.  She sees the same local folks out walking their dogs and heading to the grocery store.  They all nod and wish her good morning.   Today when Amanda returned from her run she got the kids to do some yoga and exercise with her.  Bennett has wonderful balance and spent the most time doing yoga poses with his mom.

    The day was cooler and less humid, but that didn't stop the kids from playing in the water and on the beach.  Carter just wants to stay here where it's warm and sunny and he can swim every day.  He is on the swim team at home, but says that swimming indoors isn't nearly as fun.

     Everyone took the 15 minute walk to "downtown" for an afternoon ice cream cone and some souvenir shopping.  Stella bought a little Mayan doll she has named "Rosa."  He took Spanish for several years in school and thinks that it's very cool to hear people speak Spanish in the stores.

    We have been trying to get to the fish market at a time when they are open and have fish, but no luck again today.  We had chorizo and cheese brats on the grill with more guacamole and some Spanish rice.  Delicious!  The kids are mostly over their fevers so I'm hoping to be feeling good tomorrow.  Hate to be sick on vacation.

High Waves and Kite Surfers

     Whew its windy again today.  Big rollers coming in.  Lucky for us we are at a beach access point and four kite surfers came to enjoy the wind and waves.  Its a very athletic sport that looks like it takes a lot of finesse and strength.  Stella pointed out that the best surfer was a girl.  She wants to learn how to do kite surfing too.  Stella wore her new "tankini" that we bought at the grocery store and was very aware of how cute she looked today.

     Stella felt better today, Kellen was worse, and the virus claimed another victim, me.  I coughed yesterday and thought it was allergies, but today brought a headache and fever.  I'm missing out on a highly recommended visit to the Jungle Spa.  Aloe bath, long massage and hot shower.  Instead, Grandpa and I are moderating a game of indoor hide and seek.  This five bedroom house has lots of good hiding places.  Grandpa is also getting to be an expert on playing Chutes and Ladders, although Stella usually wins.

     We are constantly running into the problem of interpreting the Spanish instructions on food packages and medications.  I bought Tylenol for Kellen's fever and eventually had to Ask Google what the dose should be.  Making pancakes was complicated by unfamiliar measurements.  Baking chicken nuggets required a translation from centigrade to  fahrenheit for the oven.  

    The Jungle Spa visit was truly an adventure into the jungle.  It was a long drive down a pothole covered road.  Massages were done in grass covered huts by

short, little Mayan women.  The strenuous massage ended with a rub of fresh aloe for dry winter skin.  It was quite the 3 hour adventure which left everyone tired, relaxed, and covered with aloe.

    I'm dosing myself with orange juice and Tylenol and hoping this sickness passes quickly.

   

Swimming in the Caribbean Ocean

     We had a big rain overnight and woke up to pddles of water on the living room floor and in the kids bedroom.  There was a lake of water just outside our door on the patio.  The pool guys who come each day to clean the pool spent a lot of time picking up debris from the grounds.  It always looks so beautiful with lots of flowering plants. 

     Cancun is on the Yucatan Peninsula , just around the corner from the Gulf of Mexico.   Last falls hurricanes paaed it by, so winter getaway business is ghriving.  The ocean just at our doorstep is the Western Caribbean.  The water is deep blue and relatively warm.  The beaches are gold and the sand is fine and soft.  Stella was barely out of bed when she begged to go play in the sand.  She was willing to hold off for a while and have some pancakes with her brothers.  Then she pulled on her bathing suit, slathered up with sunscreen and climbed down the stairs to the beach.  The house is well supplied with pails and scoops. 

     Before long the sun broke through the clouds and the day warmed up.  Everyone joined us at the waters edge and soon were in the water.  Carter and Kellen learned about the bouyant properties of salt water as they did back floats.  Bennett has been swimming in the pool with his snorkel gear non-stop.  He never wants to go home.

    Once again the day clouded up and the rains came in the late afternoon.  We brought in heaps of wet towels.  It's great to have a washer and dryer in the house to keep up with all the damp clothes.  The humidity remains very high.

    Kellen was coughing and seems to have caught Stellas cold.  He wiped out on the sofa for a rest.  The kids played Monopoly while the adults planned activities for the rest of the week.  Unusually big waves have stopped some of the snorkel and scuba tours.  It's supposed to be better late in the week.  The ladies went back to the big grocery store for more food.  It is a time consuming activity to shop in a very unfamiliar store with all the labels in Spanish.  The upside is amazingly good fruit and vegetables.  

     We went home and prepared a feast of chicken tacos.  We are eating very well with our great grill and two big refrigerators full of food.  The kids are using up calories at a high rate from all their swimming a playing.  One week is not going to be long enough!

"Let's always live here, Grandma."

     Shortly after I finished my blog last night, it began to rain.  Which was no big deal except that it was already about 99% humidity.  So we had the air conditioning on to cool things down for the Minnesota crowd.  Then, in the blink of an eye, the lights went out.  Blinked back on, then out.  We checked  outside and saw that the darkness was throughout the whole neighborhood.  We turned on flashlight apps on our phones and found house flashlights and candles.  Now it was both hot and dark.  We had to put the kids to bed in a totally dark, unfamiliar house, but they were troopers.  The lights, TVs, air conditioners- all came on a couple hours later.  Fortunately the sleep deprived kids didn't wake up.

    This morning was sunny and much calmer.  The kids gulped down their cereal and suited up for a beach walk, swim, snorkel.  The beach is raked each morning and so it is amazingly fine, clean white sand.  Perfect for building castles.  The pool is chilly, the ocean fairly warm.  Three hours later we dragged everyone inside for lunch.  

    After lunch the rain returned so we all relaxed on the covered patios.   Flocks of brown pelicans streak along just over the top of the waves looking for fish.  Dozens of dive boats wander back and forth along the edge of the reef.  On our side of the reef the waves are small, which makes it perfect for the kids.  We can see big rollers crashing against the far side of the reef.

    After a big nap Stella collected colorful leaves and flowers that were blown off in the rainstorm.  She gatherered them on a tray to "decorte our table.  The boys learned how to crawl into hammocks slung under the porch overhang and sprnt part of the afternoon reading.  

     The house has a huge supply of games and DVDs so we end our day playing Monopoly and Pictionary.  Carter just loves this house and thinks we should all just live here.  He loves the arches, and the roof top patio, the big table we can all sit around and the big bedroom he shares with his brother.  He loves to hang out with the whole family and see the ocean from all the windows.  On this lovely evening the wind is still quiet so we can hear the soft sound of the surf.  Perfct day 2. 

Casa Margarita

     We're here!  20 miles south of Cancun airport.  Windy, humid, 80* and pounding surf outside our door. Our day began at 5:30, with a checkin at Terminal 2 at 6:30.  We flew as a group so we all had to check in at the same time.  Coffee, rolls and a little playtime and then four hours in the air.  I he kids were great so itvwas a long, but easy trip.  It was a little slow going through customs, but the biggest wait was for our luggage.  I think Ricks suitcase was the last one off the plane.  We found our transport and drove past miles of mangroves interspersed with dive shops and activities. 

       Within ten minutes of arrival the kids were in the pool.  It was a great way to burn off energy after a long sit on the plane.  The house manager, Roberto, walked us through the house and grounds.  He then took Amanda on a drive through town to show her where to run.  Tomas came by to help us schedule a morning of snorkeling on the reef and then ordered a couple pizzas for the hungry kids.  A grocery shopping  contingent headed off to the big grocery store out on the highway.  

   We watched the sun go down and the blue and purple lights go on in the pool.  Only 6:15 and Stella asked to get her nightgown on.  I think it's going to be an early night for most of us.  It gets dark early so we can see the many lights on the cruise ships out beyond the reef.  The guys cooked us some barbecue chicken and hamburgers on the big grill on the patio.  The air is cooling down a bit, but humidity is still high.  My winter thirsty skin is drinking it in.

    Tomorrow we wake up to a walk on the beach!

  

Warm Weather, Here We Come

     Tomorrow morning, bright and early, our extended family of 10 will hop on a Sun Country plane for a flight to Cancun.  It has been quite a project getting passports for the little kids and making lists to be sure that we have all that we might need.  Although there IS a Walmart nearby our Mexican house.
    We are staying in a five bedroom, five bathroom house that is just outside the fishing village of Puerto Morelos.  My brother and his family rented this house last year so we are comfortable with knowing that it's a great place to go.  The house has a large, shaded veranda overlooking a pool.  It is right on the edge of a beautiful beach, and THE OCEAN!  I can't wait to hear the waves and smell the salt air.
    It is a big production to go with ten people and plan for food.  I have been making lists and checking out the website of the big grocery store nearby Casa Margarita.  We will eat most of our meals at home (the only reasonable option with four growing kids along) so we'll need a good supply of food.
    We are not renting a car; it's really expensive when we add in the cost of all the required insurance and the high airport tax.  I understand that it can take several hours to go through the rental process as well - not good with four hungry kids waiting to get "home."  We debated this and then decided to use the airport transportation to get us all to the house.  The house is only 20 miles from the Cancun Airport.  The taxi ride to the grocery store is just $2.  It's a ten minute walk into town.  If we need a car, we can rent one for a couple days. 
    I'm excited to spend this time with the family.  It has taken a lot of planning, but once we get our bags into our bedrooms and throw open the doors to smell the ocean, it will all be worth it.

Back from Michigan

     Compared to many of our trips this was a short one.  Still, I am happy to be home.  The weather was just so unseasonably hot.  I was prepared for sweatshirts and wool socks, not wading in the lake to cool off.  We are now really spoiled because we have a thermostat that can be adjusted from our smartphones.  I checked the house temperature last night and found it to be 88*.  Whew.  It was great to turn on the air and have it a comfortable 75* as we unloaded the camper.
    Driving through Wisconsin is always a pleasure with the many rolling hills and pretty farms.  We saw a lot of signs to watch out for horse and buggy's which  made us remember our day on Mackinac Island.  It also made me think of the many stone farmhouses and barns we saw in Michigan - even a round stone silo.  I wish we could have stopped to take a picture, but that isn't too practical while driving a camper and towing a car behind.
    It was a great little trip with no car troubles and no illness or injury.  We learned a lot about shipping on the Great Lakes, shipwrecks, and life in the little towns along the shores.  We visited four Michigan State Parks which were beautiful and well maintained.  We stopped in a dozen Michigan highway Waysides for picnics and rests.  I wish that Wisconsin had nice little stops along the way as well, but instead we had to pause at giant truck stops.
    I hope that you will consider a vacation to some of these nearby places.  The area around Great Lakes is beautiful, varied, interesting and historical.  Just bring along your passport or Enhanced driver's license if you go across into Canada at Sault Ste Marie.  Maybe we will see you on the road!

Marathon Park, Wausau, Wisconsin

   I often use a website called rvparkreviews to find a nice campground.  This is especially handy when we are driving between two points and want to stop after four or five hours of driving.  I just search on towns near our proposed stop and look at the reviews on the available campgrounds.  I have found a lot of nice city and county campgrounds that would not be listed in a commercial directory.  Tonight we are staying in a city park in Wausau, Wisconsin.  There are 40 large sites with electricity in a stand of beautiful white pines.  On this hot weekend night there are 15 sites filled.

    We are a couple miles off the main route through town.  Near some nice restaurants and other services.  We can hear a little road noise, but we are further from the road than in a lot of KOA's.  The ground is covered with pine needles and no campfires are allowed.  Its so hot and humid though I don't miss a fire tonight.

    We certainly drove some back roads today (and several other times this trip).  We have a GPS that has a database which is aware of weight and height limitations on roads - used by truckers.  We put in the size of our camper and towed car and we shouldn't be routed anywhere we can't go.  We left that GPS at home and figured since it is a short trip we would use Google maps.  Well, we haven't had any disasters, but we have been routed on some very narrow back roads.  The driver has been patient with his navigator, but we have had some tense silences.  

     I am looking forward to  in all the nooks and crannies of the camper to pack up a summer's accumulation of snacks, toys, books, and clothes.  We almost always have to go to the storage lot and look through the winterized camper for something we are missing.  

    Then tomorrow we drive home, unload, and start thinking about where to go next summer.

Kitch-iti-kipi

    I looked at several lists of things to do in Upper Michigan and then plotted a round trip that included most of them.  An unusual point of interest was a spring called Kitch-iti-kipi.   The spring is a pool of very clear water which is 400 feet across in its largest dimension, and up to 40 feet deep.  Snow and ice melt seep through limestone, run under the bedrock and bubble up into the pool through cracks in the rock.  The temperature of the water is about 45* - not great for swimming.

The raft crossing the spring

    A large wooden raft running on a steel cable provides self service transportation across the spring.  As each group of visitors climb on the raft, one volunteer turns the large wheel which pulls the raft across the pool.  An open area in the center of the raft provides a great view of the bottom of the spring so that you can see water bubbling up through the sand 40 feet below and dozens of huge of large brown trout that the spring is stocked with.  The self-service raft has been in operation since the 1930's (although I'm sure modern safety rails were installed).  Everyone waits in line, takes their place on the raft, and someone steps up to turn the wheel.  It was a fun place to visit.
    We drove into the town of Manistique for lunch.  It's a pretty shopworn place without much to recommend it.  There is a nice boardwalk along Lake Michigan, but it was very hazy today and the sky sort of blended in with the water.  Too much heat and humidity.
    We spent much of the afternoon cleaning the inside of the camper.  It will be time to winterize it when we return, despite this summer-like weather we have been having.  By late afternoon we were sitting in the shade watching the lake when I could hear thunder.  A ranger stopped by to tell us that there were severe thunderstorm warnings.  We put buttoned up the camper and put our chairs and outdoor rugs away.  The wind started to blow harder and we decided to retreat.  Then it blew harder and harder very quickly.  I am, as always, so happy to have an awning that goes in and out with the push of a button.  So we brought in the awning and moved to our bedroom window to watch the storm.
    The storm shelter (bathroom) was just across the road if things looked really bad.  We watched one neighbors awning fly up and over his camper and another couple of roof vents fly open.  Luckily we had no problems.  Soon the rain came and we finally got a little relief from the heat.  By dinner time the rain was gone and the weekend campers were arriving.  We gathered on the stairs to watch the beautiful sunset.  One more night on the road and then we are home.

Indian Lake State Park

   We are still in this magic Indian Summer mode with temperatures in the low 80's.  Every day is more perfect than the last.  Our campsite tonight overlooks a large lake just  four miles from Lake Michigan.  We are camped 30 feet from the bluff overlooking the lake with a nice set of wood steps going down to the water and a bench for two at the top.  Since we are backed into the site we can see the sunset on the lake from our bed.  A bunch of ducks hang out on the shore and keep quacking at me.  I think they expect to be fed.

    The campground is about half full but will probably get busier on the weekend with such good weather.  Tonight it is quiet except for the ducks and a red squirrel who also seems to expect a handout.  There's not much to the park except for the beach and the campground, but its a beautiful place that just happened to be along the north shore of Lake Michigan on our drive back home.

    We crossed back over the Mackinac Bridge and were lucky once again to have calm, sunny weather.  Then we headed east on Michigan Highway 2 which follows the north shore of Lake Michigan along the dunes and through little towns.  There are a lot of 1950 style travel courts with tiny cabins and 1960 style motels and drive in restaurants.  I think much of it looks the same as when my family drove here in about 1958.  We camped in a tiny pop-up camper then.  I'm spoiled in my nice little Winnebago now.  

     September is great for camping when you're retired.  Fewer crowds and mosquitos, warm days, cool nights and perfect campfire weather.  

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

    The Ojibwe have a legend that says there was once a mother bear with two cubs.  They were starving and so she took her cubs and swam across Lake Michigan to find food.  They were almost to land when one by one the cubs sank and died.  The mother was so sad she swam ashore and climbed the bluff to look out over the lake where her cubs had died.  The great Spirit turned the cubs into North and South Manitou islands and mother bear into the Sleeping Bear Dunes.
   The 36 mile Manitou Passage between the islands and the Michigan mainland is a heavily used shipping route.  Unfortunately is has many dangerous shoals and sandbars so there have been many shipwrecks.  In the 1800's ships using this route stopped at small towns along the shore to purchase lumber for fuel for their steam engines.  The lumber industry thrived until the forests were depleted.  Fruit orchards were planted to replace trees. Passengers on the ships stopped in the towns to buy fruit from the orchards and eventually the beautiful area became a destination and tourism became a prime industry.

At the top of one of the highest dunes

    We spent the day stopping at the many beaches, overlooks, and little ghost towns in this park which stretches along the northeast shore.   There is so much to do for the very ambitious younger crowd.   Paved bicycle paths run along much of the seashore.  Kayaks and canoes are for rent to use on the rivers and lakes.  The really adventuresome climb the 200 foot high dunes and slide down again.  The sand is very fine and easy on the feet.  Beaches are everywhere and the water is very clear and not too cold so there were lots of swimmers.  However, on Lake Michigan beaches we saw signs everywhere warning about riptides.  I would go swimming in the Platte River where it meets the big lake instead.  The river was shallow with a slow current and a beautiful sand bottom.
    It was a good day for being in the water with temperatures in the low 80's.  We hopped in and out of the car all day to take short walks to overlooks, take photos, and read the information about the site.  By the end of the day we were both wiped out.  We turned on the air conditioner in the camper and had a short reviving nap.   We could have easily spent a couple more days in this area, but tomorrow we move on - back over that enormous bridge.  Praying for good weather!

Mackinac Bridge

     The Mackinac Bridge is the longest suspension bridge in the Western Hemisphere and the third longest in the world.  It is nearly five miles long and connects upper and lower Michigan.  It opened in 1957 during the post World War II time when everyone took car vacations.  I remember my Dad talking about it and planning a vacation with the major goal of driving across the new bridge.
     An Internet site tracks the conditions on the bridge and the length of backups on either side.  The campground host told us that the backup was eight miles long on Memorial Day.  On days with very windy conditions campers, high profile vehicles, and trucks or cars pulling a trailer need to drive very slowly.  The Mackinac Bridge Authority has a Drivers Assistance Program that provides drivers for those with gephyrphobia (bridge phobia), or anyone who is more comfortable having someone else drive them across. More than a thousand people use this service every year.  Under really windy conditions the bridge is designed to move with the wind.  It can move up to 35 feet to one side or the other.  It doesn't sway, it just moves with the wind and when the wind subsides it moves back.  It is built to be stable in winds up to 150 MPH.  Of course that doesn't mean that your car won't blow off, just that the bridge will be fine.  Only two cars have gone off the bridge- one that was speeding and one that may have been a suiside.

     It was our luck today to have a quiet, sunny day.  I was also happy that some repair work closed the outside lane of the bridge which is usually used for trucks and campers, so we were driving the inside lane.  I read somewhere that kids who are afraid of an event can get through it by taking photos.  So I took pictures as we drove.  Rick just asked me not to hang out the window.

     We are staying at the Platte River Campground in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park.  It's the nicest non-commercial campground we have ever stayed in.  Huge trees, very little underbrush, paved parking sites all nicely spaced.  Most of the sites with electric hookups are occupied tonight.  It's so popular that I had to plan the dates of the trip around when I could get a reservation.  Its a real deal for us too as we get 50% off due to our Senior Parks pass.  Ricks card was wearing out so they gave him a new one with a picture of a goat on it.  The Ranger told him it was special for "old goats."

     It gets dark and cool fairly early so we build a campfire at nice spots like this one.  We buy wood for one or two nights at a time because wood from other areas that might contain one of the many insects tht are eating our trees can't be used.  We found a new deal at this campground for wood - a vending machine!  You put your dollars in a slot and a bundle of wood drops into a bin.  I just love it.

   We went to the meeting of the Platte River and Lake Michigan for some wading and sunshine.  Hard to believe that this is mid-September.

Mackinac Island

    Today we took a ferry ride across the Straits of Mackinac in Lake Huron to a pretty island that has been a tourist destination since the late 1800's. John Jacob Astor's American Fur Company was located on Mackinac Island after the War of 1812.  Then, in late 1800's, sport fishing became popular and the island was already a center for commercial whitefish and lake trout fishing.  Large fancy homes as well as the beautiful Grand Hotel were built to accommodate the summer visitors.

Grand Hotel shuttle

    Mackinac Island was the National Park after Yellowstone, but eventually was turned over to Michigan and now 80% of the island is a Michigan State Park.  No motorized transportation is allowed on the island except for a couple fire trucks and an ambulance.  Horses are used to pull wagons to move all the constructions materials, restaurant and hotel supplies, and tourist luggage.  Tourists are picked up at the docks and brought to hotels in horse drawn taxis.  The only Michigan State Highway that does not allow motorized traffic runs around the island.  It is used by carriages, bicycles and folks on horseback.
    Many travelers on the ferry brought their own bicycles.  We saw lots of workers using large baskets and small trailers on their bicycles to make deliveries.  Horses have the right of way.  Every road has at least one worker with a broom, shovel and wheeled cart cleaning up the horse manure.  We took a tour of some of the major sightseeing spots on a carriage pulled by several sturdy horses.  Most of the horses used are huge Belgian Draft and Percheron breeds.  They are huge, strong and very well mannered horses.  Speeding bicycles, screaming children, boat horns: nothing bothered them.  Most of the horses are bred and trained by Amish farmers and then purchased for use on the island.  Many of the horses are taken off the island during the winter and brought to farms.  I liked the information that they are brought across on the ferry in groups of 20 or so because they are calmer when they hang out together.
   The largest hotel on the island is the Grand Hotel with about 350 rooms - each one with a different decor.  The 650 foot porch is the longest in the world.  It overlooks beautiful gardens and a swimming pool designed by Esther Williams.  Non-guests are charged $10 to tour the hotel.  We passed on the tour and just took some pictures and went for lunch at an outdoor restaurant across the street.  We watched four workers meticulously remove dead blossoms from a large garden during our extended lunch.  It looked like they had hours of work ahead of them, but the gardens were amazing.  There are many other more modestly priced hotels, resorts, and B & B's for visitors.
    It was another day with just beautiful weather - a little cooler - but with lots of sun, light breeze and calm seas.  We have now been on Lake Superior, Lake Michigan and Lake Huron.

St. Ignace, Michigan

     Today we were supposed to cross the Mackinac Bridge and stay in Mackinaw City.  Instead, we are on the north side of the Mackinac Bridge in St. Ignace.  There are KOA Campgrounds on both the north and south sides of the bridge.  I had it in my mind that we were staying at the north side, but when we went to check in I was told that we were at the wrong one.  We could have just driven to the other, BUT the back up to get on the bridge was very long.  There were gusts of wind which had slowed traffic on the bridge down to 20 MPH.  I must say that I am already not a fan of tall bridges and going across with gusts of wind buffeting the camper was not my idea of a good time.
    Our KOA host called the other campground, got our reservation cancelled, and found us a spot in St. Ignace.  It's not nearly as nice a campground, but it's fine and I didn't have to sit in a long line waiting to do something I don't want to do.  Now I've got two more days to think about the crossing. Blah.
   This warm weather has messed with my packing and I had to do laundry today because we are running out of shorts and t-shirts.  I hate doing laundry on the road, but today wasn't bad at all.  Now we are prepared for more warm and sunny days - a blessing really.

Mackinac Bridge in the haze

    We took a drive along the lake shore to get to a point where we could see the bridge - Bridge Park.  Somehow I thought we would be driving along a cliff looking down, but the road was right along Lake Michigan.  It appears that the lake is very high and at times was getting pretty close to the road.  I don't know how much the level is up, but based on the road and the homes right on the edge of the lake, it is much higher than usual.  There were a lot of places for sale if you want a lake shore home on Lake Michigan.
    We drove to the little downtown to see where we will catch a ferry to get to Mackinac Island tomorrow.  It's a pretty little town with many well preserved old buildings and a lot of tourist industry.  It was quiet on this nice Sunday evening and the bridge traffic was considerably diminished.  I am hoping that the calm weather will remain until we get across that bridge (and, unfortunately for me, back across it two days later).

The Soo Locks

     The last time we were in this area we were in a hurry to drive east.  Today we had the time to take a boat tour of the Soo Locks.  The first lock was built 160 years ago to help move boat traffic between Lake Huron and Lake Superior.  We have been on a boat tour of the St. Lawrence Seaway which is at the beginning of the journey ships take from the Atlantic Ocean to Lake Superior.  It was interesting to see the last part of the journey.
    Before these locks were built boats had to be portaged around the 21 foot drop on St. Mary's River.  It could take up to three months to make the portage.  In 1855 Michigan opened a set of two locks on the St. Mary River.  They were each 350 feet long.  Today the largest lock is 1200 feet long.  There are four operating locks  - three on the American side and one on the Canadian side.  The Canadian lock is used only for pleasure boats.  Our tour boat used the Canadian lock going up river and an American lock on the way back.  A couple older American locks are being dismantled and a new, still larger lock will open in a few years.  The locks are now operated by the Federal Government.  They are free to everyone.
     About 7,000 ships go through the Locks, hauling 86 million tons of cargo each year. This makes these locks the heaviest used in the world. I thought it would be the Panama locks or the Suez Canal locks, but it is a set of locks in my own back yard.     It was a perfect day to be out on the water - about 80*, sunny and with a slight breeze.  We found seats on the top deck of the tour boat under a sun shade.  It was our amazing luck that just as we got situated a demonstration of forest fire planes began.  Across the river from the tour is a Canadian Bushplane Heritage Center.  This weekend is the annual BushPlane days.  Pilots from the Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry flew the CL-415 water bomber and a EC-130 Helicopter with a water tank.  We watched as the plane flew close by us, landed on the river scooping up water, and then dropped the water as though it was putting out a forest fire.  The helicopter lowered its big bucket into the river and filled it, then dropped that water as well.  This demo lasted for about a half hour as the tour boat was loading.  We had absolutely front row seats.  It was just awesome.
     On our way back a
couple large boats got to the locks before our tour boat so we were delayed for about thirty minutes while they went through.  It was fairly warm on the boat as we circled around waiting for our turn and some of the kids on the tour really lost interest in the whole trip.  We found it really interesting.  As we went through the pleasure boat side we saw that each small fishing boat was documented and contacted.  On the American side a "Security" car drove along the locks.      
     Nevertheless, it wouldn't be any challenge to take a fishing boat from one shore and unload passengers on the other shore.  There are miles and miles and miles of unpatrolled coastline.  Do you think we need to build a wall to keep Americans from moving to Canada?

Sault Ste Marie

     I'm proud of myself that I typed the name of this town without looking it up again. The spelling just doesn't stick with me. Eight years ago we were in this same campground when we were on our way to Maine across Canada.  Although the campground is located right in town it is surrounded by hardwood forest and very quiet.  The maples are at their peak in this campground and it was glorious to set outside in the sun this afternoon and just enjoy the rich colors.
    It was a short drive from Tahquamenon to the bridge between the U.S. and Canada.  However, once we got to an area where there was cell coverage, I finally was able to log into my Verizon account and setup cell phone access in Canada for $5 a day.  I am totally dependent on my phone these days to find groceries, restaurants and gas while we are on the road.

    There was about a ten minute wait in line to go through Canadian customs.  The border building is being totally remodeled and there were only two open lines.  We had our passports ready and zipped through without any problems.  It would have made more sense to just stay on the U.S. side, but I remembered this nice KOA campground on the Ontario side and couldn't find anything of equal quality in the Michigan Sault Ste Marie. So here we are for a couple days, eh?
    We had a lazy afternoon catching up on emails, Facebook, and blogging.  There's a lot going on at our cabin as we replace the septic system so we have to stay in close touch with the family.  We went out for dinner - a rare occasion for us - and did a little grocery shopping.  Then we did one of our favorite things while we are on the road - watching folks back their campers into their sites.  Some folks are real experts.  Other folks are pure entertainment.  Tonight we saw the longest combination of Class A camper pulling a huge trailer.  I am guessing the whole thing was between 65' and 70' long.  Whew.  Not too many campgrounds with sites big enough to park that one.